Redodo 12V 100Ah Self-Heating Lithium Battery

At 12V, 400W delivers up to ~33A – a 100Ah LiFePO4 battery is the practical minimum, 200Ah if you want reserve for cloudy days or inverter loads. At 24V, a 100Ah battery (2.56kWh) covers it with lower current and thinner cabling.

Yes, provided it has a lithium charging profile (14.4–14.6V absorption for 12V systems). Set the profile before connecting, and confirm charge current in the battery Bluetooth app on the first sunny day.

Either works — choose by your loads. Stay 12V if your loads (lights, pumps, diesel heater) are 12V. Go 24V if you run an inverter or a trolling motor – current halves, wiring is easier, and expansion to larger banks is simpler.

Measure in three places with a multimeter: directly at the battery terminals, behind the fuse, and at the controller output. If the battery reads 0V but the controller side is live (or vice versa), you have isolated the fault – in a real case we diagnosed, those readings showed the BMS had tripped while the controller was still feeding voltage.

Around 13.2–13.4V at rest when full. A reading of 0V does not mean dead cells – it means the BMS has disconnected output for protection. If voltage returns to the 13V range after a charger wake-up pulse and holds under load, the battery has recovered.

Yes — wet connections or a struggling solar controller can feed irregular voltage that trips BMS protection; the sealed cells themselves rarely get wet. This was exactly the pattern in a support case we handled after a rainy night. Keep all connections dry, confirm the controller is regulating correctly, and check the fuse before assuming the battery failed.

BMS protection can trigger at any age: one deep discharge below cut-off, a momentary short, or an over-current event is enough – an April 2024 battery we supported ran perfectly for over two years before one such event. Age alone is not the diagnosis; work through the 0V checks first.

Multimeter readings at the battery terminals, behind the fuse, and at the controller; the charger type and what voltage it shows; photos of the wiring and setup; and purchase date plus order details. This is the same checklist we use when helping readers, and it gets faster answers from Redodo support ([email protected]).

Almost certainly not – 0V means the BMS has disconnected the cells for protection (deep discharge, short, or controller fault). Measure at the terminals, check fuses, and wake it with a LiFePO4 charger pulse. Full steps are in our guide above.

Disconnect all loads and solar, check/replace the fuse, then apply a brief charge from a LiFePO4-compatible charger. If voltage returns to ~13.2–13.4V and holds under load, the battery has recovered.

In most cases yes – Group 24 LiFePO4 batteries are built as drop-in replacements. Check that your mains charger and solar controller have a lithium profile, and size up usable capacity (100Ah lithium ≈ 200Ah AGM in practice).

About 2 hours at full thrust (~50A) or a full fishing day at typical trolling speeds (10–20A). Lithium keeps thrust constant where lead-acid fades.

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